An exotic fabric / made through

A centuries-old process / by the woman of the

T´boli Tribe / South Cotabato, Philippines

FIBER. Carefully selected from a fruit-bearing abaca plant about eighteen months old and at least ten feet tall, the fibers are stripped by hand from the soft wet pulp of the abaca stalk. By repeated combing und sun bleaching the fibers become pliable and flaxen.

METHOD, The design on the T´nalak is exactly the same on both sides of the cloth, of precisely the same quality. This is achieved by TIE-DYING, a most tedious method of putting a design on cloth.

PROCESS, The refined fibers are laid out on a simple loom, one end woven a few inches to hold the fibers in place during the dying process. This will eventually be cut off and discarded from the finished cloth. The fibers stretched out  on loom and tied with other fibers that have been rubbed in beewax. Areas covered by the waxed string will not be penetrated with the dye. Real artistry lies in the process of tying. No measuring instrument is used and yet the patterns emerge with precision. Measurement is done with finger joints, the length of the index finger to the elbow, etc.

          Once the fibers are tied, they are ready for dying. The black dye is made from Kenalum leaves and the red dye from roots of loco trees.

            The fibers are placed in a “double boiler” (two earthen pots, one on top of the other, mouth to mouth), boiled hour after hour for as long as three weeks for the black colour and only two days for the red. Steam carries the dye to the bundle of tied threads lodged in the upper pot.

            The dark color is dyed first, then some of the waxed strings are removed. The newly exposed areas are dyed red. The remaining waxed ties are removed, exposing the undyed areas making three colors in the design, black (or dark brown), red and the cream or the flaxen color of the natural fiber. When the dying process or the red is complete, the fibers are removed and rinsed.

            The dyed fibers are then again laid out on the loom ready for weaving. The design is already evident. A shuttlecock of black or dark brown fibers has been dyed with the other fibers. The weaver sits on the floor with her feet against the bamboo brace fitted for the purpose. A belt of woven rattan fits around her hips and is fastened to the loom. With this very simple backstrap loom, she weaves in the standard way.

            Generally the weaving is done during the night when the cool night air keeps the fiber at just the right elasticity. Often small bells are hung on the edges of the unfinished cloth to frighten away evil spirits while the weaver works.

            After the cloth is woven, it is removed from the loom. If it is to be made into a large blanket, the “true” T´nalak, these lenghts of the cloth are sewn together, edge to edge, not overlapping. If the sewing is well done you will have to look carefully to find the Seam.

            The cloth is now pounded with a mallet and rubbed with a special cowrie Seashell, which gives the cloth a waxen sheen. The entire process from beginning to end takes about 2 ½ months for a piece about 18 feet long.

SIGNIFICANCE: T´nalak is basically used for blankets and clothes.The cloth is one of the traditional properties used in exchanges at the time of marriage. When a woman gives birth it is considered helpful for a safe delivery to use the T´nalak as covering. Certain feasts feature the cloth which gives it a sacred value. The T´boli feels that if you cut the cloth you will become seriously ill or die. Often a brass ring is attached to the cloth before selling to appease the spirits.

PROPER CARE. The dyes are fast and the fabric can be washed with detergent (though this is taboo to theT´boli unless you are the one to do it). Upholstery can be scrubbed with a soft brush. To restore the sheen you must rub the cloth very hard with a very smooth object.